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A Historical & inspirational guide to Fashion Photography
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Historical perspective

A Historical & Inspirational Guide to Fashion Photography

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The fashion industry is strongly linked to image. The greater the imagery capacity of reproduction, the more it is possible to faithfully portray a piece, a collection, or a fashion show. Or rather, any type of fashion manifestation – in its different formats. Over time, the industry increasingly saw the need to visually reproduce and advertise creations. Thus, Fashion Photography was born.

In this article, we will go through the basic alphabet of this profession. Tell how Fashion Photography came about, how it developed throughout history and how it is worked today. 

Keep reading!

The beginning of it all

When photography was born, critics and artists wondered if it could become an art form in its own right or if it was just a simple mechanical representation of reality.

As photographers experimented and showed the possibilities and scope of this new art, photography acquired different shades and uses. Then, in the 20th century, fashion photography became a form of artistic expression in its own right; visual art rather than applied art.

Portraits

Thinking about the history of painting, portraits had the function of highlighting the social status of aristocrats

Over time, the portrait became democratized and came within reach of ordinary people. Something similar happened with photography. Countess Virginia de Castiglione, photographed in her luxurious gowns, is considered to have been the first model in history.

Portrait of the Condess of Castiglione ca. 1863 1866
Portrait of the Countess of Castiglione (1863 – 1866)

Then… Fashion Photography was born!

The history of fashion photography is totally linked to fashion magazines. And the evolution of the two went through very similar trajectories. The original function of these photos was utilitarian: fashion articles were shown for commercial purposes. However, it soon became – also – an art, a way of expressing an individual’s desires.

In the mid-1900s, with photographer Edward Steichen and Baron Adolf Meyer, the first fashion photographs were created

Until then, magazines and catalogs used illustrations without well-curated scenarios and poses. The pioneer Baron Adolf de Mayer took his first fashion photo for Vogue in the early 20th century. In 1932, the first color fashion photograph was published, also in Vogue, of a girl in a bathing suit holding a beach ball, photographed by Edward Steichen. For both, fashion photography needed to convey the idea of a dream.

Photo at the magazine Mode Pratique 13
Cover of the magazine Mode Pratique (September, 1937)

After 1930, fashion photography became a visual genre with a language of its own. Until the mid-60s, models were not celebrities. Also, the photographs were nothing like what we know today. But, with the growth of the niche, important models and celebrities started to pose for the photos.

During the twenties and thirties, magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar began to portray models with clothes and accessories. But, there was an additional: they highlighted poses and natural environments.

The idea was to bring the photo closer to the reality of the final consumer. That is, to make him feel more desire, to effectively buy a product because he was interested in the way it was reproduced.

Contemporary Fashion Photography: Artistic Expression & Desire Catalyzer

Photographer Martin Munkácsi, at Harper’s Bazaar, introduced the movement to fashion photography. Thus, he laid the groundwork for contemporary trends. Furthermore, he showed women with a more modern, dynamic and fresh image. In his images, clothing is no longer only an accessory but a living element. Part of the models and a protagonist in the picture.

Martin Munkascsi 14
Photo by Martin Munkáscsi

Other photographers such as Man Ray and Horst P. Horst incorporated classical, modern and theatrical elements with a mixture of artistic avant-garde. His work questioned the traditional idea of beauty.

The Great Turn of the 20th Century

Until the 1950s, the work of fashion photographers in New York was essential, such as Irving Penn, who worked at Vogue. Through him, models became the center of the image, and his work influenced the entire subsequent generation of fashion photographers.

Irving Pen 15
Photo by Irving Pen

Later, with the cultural and social revolutions of the 1970s, fashion photography adapted to the changes. Photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin came, who incorporated into their photos critical and influences of what was happening in the world, with stronger and independent women.

In the 1980s, the focus was on consumer society. Thus, fashion photography focused on advertising. Some representatives are Patrick Demarchelier, Bruce Weber and Oliviero Toscani.

Oliviero Toscani
Photo by Oliviero Toscani

In the nineties, a more minimalist image became popular and the popularity of top models increased. The most representative photographers are Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, David LaChapelle, Steven Meisel and Nick Knight.

Fashion Photography Today

Later, there was an interest in returning to photography in a less commercial and more artistic way, with Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller, who in turn displayed realism in their images.

1 fashion photography by laura ferreira
Photo by Laura Ferreira

Since the beginning of the 21st century, fashion has diversified as much as the exponents of fashion photography, so there is no single predominant trend or technique.

Today there is greater freedom of production and expressiveness. Fashion photography has not left its promotional side and it never will. But he also masterfully embraced the artistic side.

Some current exponents are David Sims, Tim Walker, Steven Klein and Inez & Vinoodh. Instead of big fashion magazines dictating trends, these appear on social networks and independent blogs.

Nigel Barker: Photographing celebrities, producing major editorials & endeavoring

Nigel Barker is one of the biggest names in contemporary fashion photography. The Englishman was not only one of the judges on the famous reality show American Next Top Model, but he is also an author, filmmaker and entrepreneur.

Some time ago I had the honor of having a cool and interesting Zoom chat with him. In an exclusive interview, Barker said that today, a fashion photographer needs to be much more than a good ally of the cameras. To stand out in such a competitive industry, it is essential to understand the business side.

Venturing into other areas helped him gain even more knowledge to understand how things work beyond a set. As he said, it was very important to be in front of the lens as a model and to connect with celebrities and big names in the industry. “This allowed me to get the gand of the entire environment in which I was inserted. Seeing through the eyes of the other participants. Thus, I understood how to act, what I needed better, and where to invest my time and money”.

Nigel Barker also shared a little bit of his journey at the first Fashinnovation Miami Talks. Watch his full panel and get inspired!

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Credits:
Júlia Vilaça

Head of Content & Social Media

Related topics
Author:
Júlia Vilaça

Head of Content & Social Media

read 5 min
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